of the house
— Pour le sport ”
is established at
4, rue de la Paix.
Launch of the first fragrance “S”. By superstition, Elsa Schiaparelli decides to give her fragrances a name starting with the letter “S”.
The pullover with the trompe-l’œil bow becomes so famous that an American magazine publishes the pattern without mentioning the designer’s name.
First licences in the United States for printed clothing. Visionary, Elsa Schiaparelli anticipates fashion licences to develop her business. Such strategy will become a fashion industry’s common practice years later.
Sports champions wear Schiaparelli designs, especially pullovers.
As a modern and innovative woman, Elsa Schiaparelli files a patent for a one-piece swimsuit with an integrated bra. The invention of an integrated ‘built-in’ bra – called “falsies” – will later be extended to evening gowns, day dresses, …
First wrap dress in Haute Couture.
First evening jacket: a white jacket wrapped around the waist of a long black dress. It starts a new style wearing evening gowns with jackets.
First collaboration with an artist, Elsa Triolet creates the “aspirin” porcelain necklace.
New licences in the United States for shoes and coloured stockings.
Elsa writes her first article published in an American magazine.
Collaboration with the painter Jean Dunand: a long dress featuring a painted trompe-l’œil pleat.
First runway show of the entire collection at Saks in New York.
“Schiaparelli - pour le Sport,
pour la Ville, pour le Soir”.
Creation of the ‘mad cap’. The tiny knitted hat looking like a tube and taking whatever shape the wearer wants becomes an enormous worldwide success.
Opening of Schiaparelli salons in London, at 6 Upper Grosvenor Street.
The company ‘Schiaparelli, Inc.’ is registered in the United States.
In a key innovation, Elsa Schiaparelli develops crushed rayon crepe (resembling tree bark), a forerunner of the wrinkled fabrics with permanent pleats used today.
New innovation: rhodophane, a fabric as transparent and fragile as glass.
Launch of a collection of perfumes: Soucis, Salut and Schiap. The bottle is designed by Jean-Michel Frank.
First surrealist accessories (also called miniature accessories).
Creation of the press cuttings collage print (called the “newspapers’ print”). To celebrate the success of the Couture House’s new headquarters, Elsa cuts out related newspaper articles to create a print.
First collaboration with Salvador Dali for a powder compact in the shape of a phone dial.
Schiaparelli, the only French Haute Couture representative at the first French Luxury Trade Fair in Moscow.
First coat-shirt (youthful look for this item of clothing derived from a man’s shirt).
Collaboration with Meret Oppenheim for a metal and fur bracelet.
Licence in the United States for metal mesh bags.
Jewellery designs with Jean Schlumberger and Jean Clément.
Wallis Simpson, the future Duchess of Windsor, chooses Schiaparelli for her trousseau.
Creation of Mae West’s costumes for the filmEvery Day's a Holiday.
Creation of the first short evening dresses in Haute Couture.
The “Pagan”collection introduces the ivy leave shape that is to become a key element of Schiaparelli’s aesthetic.
The “Zodiac”, collection launches Ursa Major. The Great Bear is Elsa Schiaparelli’s favourite constellation as it echoes the shape of the beauty marks of her left cheek.
Launch of the fragrance Sleeping.
Creation of the American branch of ‘Parfums Schiaparelli’, whose head office at the Rockefeller Center is decorated by Jean-Michel Frank.
Launch of the men’s fragrance Snuff.
"Cash & Carry" Collection. First use of camouflage in Haute Couture. Creation of a jumpsuit with large zips and maxi pockets (intended to hold the equivalent of a handbag) and suits with integrated bags to pre-empt the air raids. The are called the ‘siren suits’. tailleurs-sirènes
Because of WWII, the Couture House’s workforce is reduced to 150. The remaining staff only work every other week on a reduced salary, to allow as many people as possible to keep their jobs.
The ‘hard chic’ jacket is softened with folk accessories such as Finnish embroidered belts.
A new way to conceive eveningwear: chic and practical. Military-inspired jackets show big embroidered pockets. They become one of Schiaparelli’s signature garments.
Creation of the costumes for the play "Les Monstres Sacrés" by Jean Cocteau.
Elsa Schiaparelli signs a contract with the Columbia Lecture Bureau for a lecture tour across the United States. She wants to raise money for the children of free France with the theme “Clothes make the Woman”. Over two months, she is to give 42 lectures in 42 cities.
Participation in the “Théatre de la Mode” exhibition with the aim of relaunching Haute Couture.
Pierre Cardin joins the studio for a few months.
whose bottle and advertising are designed
by Salvador Dali.
The perfume activity is such that a factory is built in the suburbs of Paris.
Hubert de Givenchy is hired as creative director of the Schiaparelli boutique. He is to stay four years before launching his own couture house.
Creation of the “Forbidden fruit” dress: an evening dress playing with underwear in trompe l’oeil. An embroidered bra seems to come out of an asymmetrical strapless dress.
First seamless draped dress in Haute Couture.
with the headline Schiaparelli "The Shocker".
Experimentation on diagonal buttoning.
Schiaparelli plays with soft and hard fabrics in suits and gowns.
Schiaparelli ready-to-wear licence in the United States.
First charity fashion show in Beverly Hills.
New licences in the United States: lingerie as "Schiaparelli couture lingerie" and dolls.
Philippe Venet joins the atelier tailleur for a year.
Creation of the “inverted heart” neckline strapless gown.
Creation of the dégradé silk “angel hair ” coat.
Signature of 11 licences in the United States. In total, 18 millions items with the Schiaparelli label will be sold this year.
Licence for foldable glasses.
Creation of Zsa Zsa Gabor’s costumes for John Huston’s film Moulin Rouge.
continues its activity.
Schiaparelli archives and rights.
of the Couture House at Hôtel de Fontpertuis, 21 place Vendôme,
in the very place where Elsa left it.
In July, tribute to Elsa in a unique Haute Couture collection designed by Monsieur Christian Lacroix.
BY MISTER CHRISTIAN LACROIX
In January, the first Haute Couture runway show since 1954, is presented during Paris Haute Couture week.