Jewellery and Taboos
Among the presented pieces is the famous fur bracelet (1935) designed by the surrealist artist Meret Oppenheim in collaboration with Schiaparelli. This jewel would have inspired Meret Oppenheim's famous work Déjeuner en fourrure, composed of a cup, saucer and teaspoon covered with fur. She was the first woman artist to be included the collection of the MoMA in New York, thanks to her Déjeuner en fourrure masterpiece.
There is also « La dame du char » dress whose back is embellished with a golden metal jewel from the Fall/Winter 2016-17 Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection by Bertrand Guyon.
« Medusa » brings together over 400 pieces of jewellery: created by artists, avant-garde jewellery makers and designers, contemporary jewellery makers and also high end jewelers, as well as anonymous, more ancient or non-Western pieces (including prehistorical and medieval works, punk and rappers’ jewellery as well as costume jewellery etc .).
Just like the face of Medusa in Greek mythology, a piece of jewellery attracts and troubles the person who designs it, looks at it or wears it. While it is one of the most ancient and universal forms of human expression, jewellery has an ambiguous status, mid-way between fashion and sculpture, and is rarely considered to be a work of art. Indeed, it is often perceived as too close to the body, too feminine, precious, ornamental or primitive.
The exhibition questions the traditional art boundaries by reconsidering, with the complicity of artists, the questions of craftsmanship, decoration, fashion and pop culture.
At the Musée d’Art moderne de la ville de Paris until 5 November 2017
Fourrure, métal. Pièce unique. Paris, collection particulière
© Meret Oppenheim © ADAGP, Paris 2017