A great couturier and visionary artist, Elsa Schiaparelli brought an artist’s sensibility to 20th century fashion. She was the first to assign a theme to her Haute Couture collections starting in the early 1930s.
Her Winter 1938-39 “Astrology” collection was inspired by the solar system, constellations, astronomy and astrology. The Zodiac jacket is her most iconic design and most personal expression of this theme. The embroidery by the House of Lesage set against a midnight blue background outlines “caviar” beaded galaxies, gold and silver planets, crescent moons, swirling rhinestone comets and shooting stars. Twelve embroidered glyphs representing the signs of the zodiac adorn the front of the jacket.
As a child, Elsa felt a deep affection and immense admiration for her uncle, Giovanni Schiaparelli, the renowned astronomer. In her autobiography, Shocking Life, Elsa Schiaparelli recounts that her uncle told her the beauty marks on her cheek were arranged like stars forming the Ursa Major constellation. Embroidery depicting this House of Schiaparelli emblem also illuminates the jacket’s left shoulder.
Today, the House of Schiaparelli is turning the spotlight on this iconic Zodiac jacket. Available in a new limited edition with a re-proportioned cut and decidedly modern feel, the jacket’s extraordinary embroidery remains unchanged once again entrusted to the masterful craftsmanship of the House of Lesage.
Starring Sabine Getty, the limited edition shows its timeless allure from day to night.
Exclusively available at Schiaparelli, 21 place Vendôme.
in Schiaparelli Haute Couture at ‘Suddenly Seventeen’ Beijing premiere
At ‘Suddenly Seventeen’ premiere, chinese actress Ni Ni was wearing Schiaparelli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-17.
She was dressed in a dress in black organza velvet embroidered with heavenly animals.
Potent, provocative and sometimes shocking, the word vulgar conjures up strong images, ideas and feelings in us all. The Vulgar is the first exhibition to explore the inherently challenging but utterly compelling territory of taste in fashion, from the renaissance through to contemporary design. Examining the constantly evolving notion of vulgarity in fashion whilst revelling in its excesses, we are invited to think again about exactly what makes something vulgar and why it is such a sensitive and contested term.
Among the presented pieces is the « Quand jouons-nous la comédie ? » dress in silk faille and organza painted with an unfinished décor and « L’esprit s’amuse » midnight leather satin top and ‘Bérard’ mink skirt from the Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection by Bertrand Guyon. There is also an evening ensemble hand-sewn with plaited gilt braid on chiffon foundation from the Elsa Schiaparelli Autumn 1937 collection.
The Vulgar, Fashion Redefined from 13 October 2016 to 5 February 2017