Jewellery and Taboos
The Musée d’Art moderne de la Ville de Paris presents MEDUSA, an exhibition taking a contemporary and unprecedented look at jewellery, unveiling a number of taboos.
Among the presented pieces is the famous fur bracelet (1935) designed by the surrealist artist Meret Oppenheim in collaboration with Schiaparelli. This jewel would have inspired Meret Oppenheim's famous work Déjeuner en fourrure, composed of a cup, saucer and teaspoon covered with fur. She was the first woman artist to be included the collection of the MoMA in New York, thanks to her Déjeuner en fourrure masterpiece.
There is also « La dame du char » dress whose back is embellished with a golden metal jewel from the Fall/Winter 2016-17 Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection by Bertrand Guyon.
« Medusa » brings together over 400 pieces of jewellery: created by artists, avant-garde jewellery makers and designers, contemporary jewellery makers and also high end jewelers, as well as anonymous, more ancient or non-Western pieces (including prehistorical and medieval works, punk and rappers’ jewellery as well as costume jewellery etc .).
Just like the face of Medusa in Greek mythology, a piece of jewellery attracts and troubles the person who designs it, looks at it or wears it. While it is one of the most ancient and universal forms of human expression, jewellery has an ambiguous status, mid-way between fashion and sculpture, and is rarely considered to be a work of art. Indeed, it is often perceived as too close to the body, too feminine, precious, ornamental or primitive.
The exhibition questions the traditional art boundaries by reconsidering, with the complicity of artists, the questions of craftsmanship, decoration, fashion and pop culture.
At the Musée d’Art moderne de la ville de Paris until 5 November 2017
in Schiaparelli Haute Couture at the 71st Tony Awards
At the 71st Annual Tony Awards, actress Cobie Smulders was wearing Schiaparelli Haute Couture.
She appeared in a white silk gazar strapless dress embroidered with a multicolored brocade patchwork.
in Schiaparelli at the New York premiere of Okja
At the New York premiere of her latest movie Okja, directed by Joon-Ho Bong, actress Tilda Swinton was wearing Schiaparelli.
The Oscar winner was dressed in a cream silk georgette pleated dress embellished with a heart embroidered with ruby-red glass tubes.
Schiaparelli introduces the Golden Palm jacket as part of an ongoing project dedicated to the most iconic jackets of its legacy. After the Zodiac jacket, the second edition presents the Golden Palm jacket.
Elsa Schiaparelli had always been inspired by her childhood and the world she extensively travelled. Born and raised at Rome’s Palazzo Corsini, she grew up surrounded by graceful palm trees. Aged 13, she visited Tunisia with her father for the first time. Years later, she would have a revelation when she discovered Hammamet. The light and the atmosphere of that village - whose Mediterranean shore sits opposite Sicily - were simply enthralling, as was its exotic nature. Her cosmopolitan personality led her to buy a house there, resembling a smaller version of Dar Sebastian.
These elements merged in Elsa Schiaparelli’s imagination to create a golden palm tree embroidery that she developed with Lesage. The original black wool jacket became one of the best sellers of the 1936 winter collection. Marlene Dietrich ordered one while illustrator Francis Marshall sketched Elsa Schiaparelli wearing her own jacket (that currently resides at the Philadelphia Museum of Art).
Today, design director Bertrand Guyon gave it a contemporary take. The atelier completely re-tailored its volume while its original motif remains intact.
Photographed on actress Melissa George, the limited edition shows the timeless allure of this sunny ivory version, from day to night.
Exclusively available at Schiaparelli, 21 place Vendôme.